SHOPPE BLACK

Money flowing into the Natural Hair Industry is a Blessing and Curse for those who built it up

15 mins read

Miko Branch was deep asleep when her sister Titi woke her up to celebrate. After months of experimentation in the kitchen of their Brooklyn brownstone kitchen, she had finally perfected the concoction that would come to be known as Curly Pudding.

It was a major discovery — well worth the early morning wake-up call — because in 2003 there were very few hair products for black women with kinky, curly or wavy hair.

“There was nothing like [Curly Pudding] in the early 2000s,” Miko Branch said. “It was really transformative.”

The product line they would go on to develop, Miss Jessie’s, was one of the pioneering brands in the natural hair industry, a once-grass-roots segment of the beauty world that’s now a hotbed for investment.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, these companies catered to and were largely run by a small community of black women embracing their natural hair. But with 71% of black adults in the U.S. wearing their hair naturally at least once in 2016, according to research firm Mintel, natural hair has now hit the mainstream. And with black consumers spending an estimated $2.56 billion on hair care products in 2016, it’s no surprise others are eager to edge into the market.

Investment from beauty industry giants has helped natural hair products move from specialty stores to the shelves of major retailers such as Target, Wal-Mart and CVS — making it easier for customers to get their hands on what were once niche products.

But it’s also forcing independent black-owned companies to compete with corporations that long ignored the natural hair market, resulting in sometimes uncomfortable changes for customers and business owners alike.

For black women, hair is more than a style — it’s something tangled up in history, politics and race.

Discrimination against black hair can be traced to slavery, when slave owners gave preferential treatment to those with “good hair” — a term still used today to describe black hair that more closely resembles European hair textures. To better assimilate and achieve a higher status in society, black people developed techniques to straighten their hair.

It wasn’t until the civil rights movement that black people began to reclaim their natural hair in droves. However, by the 1990s product offerings for those sporting natural hair remained sparse.

“Back then retailers weren’t bringing in natural brands,” said Richelieu Dennis, chief executive of Sundial Brands, best known for its SheaMoisture line. “They were focused on serving only women with relaxed hair.”

Black hair, which can grow out instead of down, can range from loose waves to tightly packed coils. Because of the hairs’ curl pattern, natural hair products must address unique needs, such as inherent dryness, to promote healthy hair.

With few offerings from major beauty brands, those who wanted to care for natural hair took matters into their own hands, creating products for black customers and an avenue for black entrepreneurship.

Liberian-born Dennis partnered with his college roommate and mother to make hair and skin products inspired by family recipes in 1991. A decade after opening her first salon, Jane Carter launched the Jane Carter Solution product line in 1992. Carol’s Daughter was born out of a Brooklyn kitchen in 1993. Curls, founded in Elk Grove, Calif., and Kinky-Curly, of Los Angeles debuted in 2002 and 2003, respectively. The Branch sisters started Miss Jessie’s in 2004.

Generations of being told in schoolworkmedia and even inside the black community that natural hair was unacceptable had lasting effects. But for black women going against the grain in the 1990s and early 2000s, online forums such as NaturallyCurly.com and Nappturality.com helped foster a sense of pride while spreading the word about nascent businesses, said Shelley Davis, founder of Kinky-Curly. Seeing other black women embrace their hair on YouTube, Facebook and Instagram inspired many to take the plunge.

“It’s always been a community — people sharing and complaining and consoling — that has evolved with different technologies,” Davis said.

natural
Bianca Alexa. (Christina House / For the Times)

As more women went natural, homegrown natural hair operations reaped the benefits. Sales increased and operations expanded. Sundial Brands, which started as a street-vending operation, moved to mass retailers in 2007 and is now worth an estimated $700 million.

“For so long we haven’t had a lot of options, we’ve been sold misinformation and now the tide has changed,” Davis said.

Meanwhile, multinational corporations were left catering to a dying trend: relaxers. According to Mintel, black spending on relaxers fell 30.8% between 2011 and 2016. By 2020, it’s estimated that relaxers will plummet to the smallest segment of the market.

The hair care industry is saturated, said Toya Mitchell, a multicultural analyst at Mintel, with shampoos and conditioners experiencing soft sales. “Companies looking for growth are looking for consumers that are the low hanging fruit,” she said.

Adding natural hair products is an obvious way for big beauty corporations to tap into the more than 24 million black women in the U.S — a market many had previously overlooked.

This has led some multinational beauty brands to build their own natural hair lines. Cantu, developed by AB Brands in 2004, was sold to PDC Brands in 2015. L’Oréal unveiled Au Naturale in 2013. Pantene launched a natural hair line in January developed by a team of black scientists.

Major beauty companies also began investing in and acquiring black-owned natural hair brands.

Carol’s Daughter was sold to L’Oréal in 2014. Namaste Laboratories, known for its Organic Root Stimulator line, was sold to Indian wellness company Dabur for $100 million in 2010. Bain Capital, an investment firm co-founded by onetime presidential candidate Mitt Romney, has a minority stake in Sundial. (Dennis declined to discuss the size of Bain’s stake).

This funding has helped natural hair companies expand. With L’Oréal’s acquisition, Carol’s Daughter reached more than 30,000 stores nationwide. Mitchell estimates that Carol’s Daughter and SheaMoisture are aiming for 45,000 retail outlets.

Despite their increasing influence in the market, major beauty brands acknowledge it will be an uphill battle to win over black customers who feel the industry has neglected their needs.

“We understand that many have the perception that Pantene is not a brand for women with natural hair,” Jodi Allen, vice president of hair care for North America at Procter & Gamble, said in an email.

Such sentiment hasn’t stopped Pantene, Dove and Garnier Fructis from launching “very overt campaigns to black women trying to bring them into the fold,” Mitchell said.

Natural hair has hit the mainstream and companies are eager to cash in. Pictured is a sampling of natural hair products including Cantu, Curls, Miss Jessie's, Au Naturale and  SheaMoisture.
Natural hair has hit the mainstream and companies are eager to cash in. Pictured is a sampling of natural hair products including Cantu, Curls, Miss Jessie’s, Au Naturale and SheaMoisture. (Jerome Adamstein / Los Angeles Times)

The interest and capital from big beauty has upsides and downsides, said Kashmir Thompson, founder of Delish Condish, a small natural hair product line. “I have mixed feelings because it almost seems kind of culture-vulturish,” she said. But “a part of me feels like it’s about time. I don’t really want to shun it because we should’ve been part of these bigger brands.”

Yet the changing industry has some customers fearing they’re the ones who are being shunned.


The influx of money — and competition — has led some in the natural hair industry to prioritize the most traditional of business goals: growth. With black women making up about 7.5% of the U.S. population, one way to grow sales in the increasingly crowded natural hair sector is to reach new demographics of shoppers.

Some natural hair firms have started targeting a broader audience of multicultural buyers to better compete with corporate giants. But in doing so, they risk alienating their original customer base.

Before its acquisition, Carol’s Daughter signaled a transition with a 2011 ad featuring singer Solange and multiracial models Cassie and Selita Ebanks. “What we’re doing now is moving into a polyethnic space,” investor Steve Stoute told Women’s Wear Daily when the campaign was launched.

For some, the ad marked a step away from a movement for black women. “It seems like Carol’s Daughter did what many companies tend to do — feature only lighter-skinned women of color, because they’re considered more palatable to mainstream society,” wrote blog Brown Sugar Beauti.

Founder Lisa Price says she knew Carol’s Daughter had the potential to reach a larger demographic than its original largely black and female customer base when she realized the products work for a wide range of hair and skin types.

“We will continue addressing diverse beauty needs and featuring African American women, and all types of women in our advertising — as our Carol’s Daughter family has grown to include real women from around the world,” Price said in an email.

SheaMoisture faced similar backlash for an ad in April. The ad, part of a campaign with dozens of short videos, featured several white women talking about the hair-related struggles they’ve faced — like having red hair. Critics said it minimized the lifetime of discrimination black women face over their hair, affecting their employment prospects, media representations and self-esteem, among other factors.

The blowback was swift and fierce.

“The reason people felt upset is because you feel so close to this brand that you’ve seen grow and you’ve helped build and you’ve spread the word about,” said Patrice Grell Yursik, creator of black beauty website Afrobella. “To see them making decisions that make you feel excluded and that they’re intentionally trying to move on from you as a consumer is hurtful.”

Dennis said the ad did not go through Sundial’s typical process. “We understand that we as a brand have transcended a brand and we are part of our cultural identity and there’s a responsibility that comes with that.”

When asked if they are shifting to a multicultural audience, some brands point to hair type instead of race. “From the beginning, my sister and I were staying focused on texture,” Branch said. “It’s not uncommon for a Jewish woman to have the same afro-texture as a woman with African descent.”

“I’m black,” Davis said. “I made [Kinky-Curly] for my hair type and as time went on, other ethnicities and other demographics have started to use the product which is fine.”

Some customers are denouncing the shifts by brands such as SheaMoisture and Carol’s Daughter — companies that helped kick-start the natural hair movement — and pledging their support to small, independent black-owned companies.

“A lot of these brands … say they’re listening and in the same breath they try to defend what they do,” said Erin McLaughlin, a 20-year-old from Philadelphia who went natural two years ago.

There’s a reason those with natural hair are concerned, Yursik said. After all, the movement emerged because big beauty companies were ignoring their wants and needs. Who’s to say that won’t happen again?

“I want to see our black brands grow in a way that doesn’t result in alienating us as a consumer base,” she said. “It’s something we’ve seen before.”

 

Source: LA Times

First Black Hospital In Kansas City Now On Life Support

17 mins read

Vacant since 1972, the first Black-owned hospital in Kansas City – where Black doctors and nurses could practice medicine and receive advanced clinical training – sits decaying under 45 years of neglect.

Image courtesy of Missouri Valley Special Collections, Kansas City Public Library, Kansas City, Missouri.

Once a triumph of community-wide cooperation, the Wheatley-Provident Hospital remains on the city’s dangerous buildings list for an eighth year. Absent a plan for its rehabilitation, it could be demolished by 2019.

In summer, a battered barbed wire fence surrounding the historic property at 1826 Forest Avenue disappears under green and poisonous vines. The vines spiral up relentlessly, covering fence and walkway and spreading through a field once planned for a nursing school expansion but now a bed of noxious weeds.

Some of the vines have latched on to the limestone facade, growing toward a stone parapet over the century-old front door, which is now boarded. The words “Wheatley Provident Hospital” are still visible on the stone sign but faded like the memory of clinics, seminars, consultations, and surgeries that took place here from 1918 through 1972.

“It’s kind of hard to imagine the way it sits now, but it was definitely a bustling area,” says Brad Wolf, the city’s historic preservation officer.

In photographs from a 1940s tax assessment, the hospital’s walls peek out from the middle of a dense block, a mixed-use subdivision called Victor Place, with apartments, duplexes, a large corner drug store and various warehouses.

Then the hospital, located a block east of Troost Avenue and three blocks south of Vine Street, sat at the edge of a burgeoning African American community, separated by Jim Crow laws from white Kansas City for much of the 20th century.

‘Truly dangerous’

When Dr. J. Edward Perry moved to Kansas City in 1903, there were 16 beds available at the city hospital for “non-white patients” and no other facilities serving the 23,566 minority residents in the city. Perry, an African American physician, bought a home at 1214 Vine and began seeing patients in his front room.


J. Edward Perry founded Wheatley-Provident Hospital a century ago.
(Credit Missouri Valley Special Collections, Kansas City Public Library)

“The health of my people weighed heavy on my heart,” Perry wrote in an unpublished memoir, “Forty Cords of Wood.”

But now the hospital he established, which eventually moved to 1826 Forest Avenue, is threatened by the city’s renewed commitment to demolish dangerous buildings. Similar plans have been made in the past, but this time the commitment comes with a $10 million-dollar budget to fund demolitions, which cost about $10,000 per building.

“We didn’t have enough money to take the hospital down in the past, but with the demolition initiative, now we do,” says Shocky Franciscus, manager of the dangerous buildings list.

Franciscus and structural engineer Mike Falbe plan to inspect the hospital this week. Their findings will inform a demolition order, which, if issued, will require the owner to demolish or repair the property in 30 days. If the owner fails to comply, the city will pay for the demolition.

“We put a lien against the property to try and recoup the costs of demolition from a negligent owner,” says Franciscus.

In 2007, Wolf appealed to the city’s Historic Preservation Commission to add the Wheatley-Provident Hospital to the Kansas City Register of Historic Places. His case, which notes the hospital’s importance to the community and its association with founder Perry, “was an effort to save the building from demolition,” Wolf says.

The pediatric ward of Wheatley-Provident Hospital in a photo taken in the 1930s. (Credit Missouri Valley Special Collections, Kansas City Public Library)

But continued neglect decade after decade makes the building now “truly dangerous,” Franciscus says. “Parts of floors are completely collapsed. The interior wood is rotted. The roof doesn’t exist in some places. The building has taken on water for years, and that takes a toll.”

Baldwin City, Kansas, resident Mark A. Shay has owned the building since 1986, when he bought it from Kansas City real estate developer Mel Mallin, according to property records. The building has been for sale or option since the 1990s.

Shay did not respond to numerous attempts to reach him.

“The building has been for sale forever,” says real estate agent Tim Gates, who represents Shay.

The Jackson County Assessor’s office valued the building at $84,567 in 2017, but Shay is asking $250,000, a $600,000 reduction from his asking price two years ago. Still, that price is too high, says Dalena Taylor, director of the city’s neighborhood preservation division.

Katharine Berry Richardson (back row center) and John Edward Perry (second row, first person) gather on the steps of WPH with other physicians and nurses involved in the training program. Photo property of CMH archives.

“He is negotiating a very high price,” Taylor says. “He thinks he has a gold mine on a hill, so to speak.”

Shay was able to secure a temporary lease on the building for Dr. Deadly’s Haunted Hospital from 1992 to 1996.

In a blog about 1990s haunted houses, Darren Hinesley, a haunted house designer, says the building “still contained original gurneys and equipment from when it had served patients. It was by far one of the creepiest locations I had ever worked in.”

Code violations

According to public records (click here for more info), the property has been in violation of city nuisance and property maintenance codes for years. Taylor’s codes enforcement officers have issued warnings for “rank weeds, unattended growth, litter, trash, refuse, and rubbish” almost monthly for five years, but Shay “doesn’t respond to tickets or anything else,” Taylor says.

“Actually,” she adds, “since he lives in Baldwin City, Kansas – out of state – he doesn’t get tickets. He gets citations.”

“I don’t understand how the owner can, in good conscience, leave that building in the condition it is in,” Taylor says. “Have you seen it? The building continues to fall apart and it affects the safety, health, and welfare of the public.”

“We would hope that the city would consider other alternatives to demolition,” says Lisa Briscoe, executive director of Historic Kansas City (Historic KC), a local non-profit that advocates for historic preservation.

Historic KC every year publishes a “most endangered buildings” list, which calls attention to properties of historical significance that are vulnerable to demolition. The Wheatley-Provident Hospital has been on the list since 2012 and is part of a broader endangered district, which Historic KC calls “18th and Vine and African American Heritage Sites.”

Shay could save Wheatley-Provident Hospital from demolition if he presented a thorough plan for its rehabilitation and reuse, Taylor says.

Nurses at Wheatley-Provident Hospital. Courtesy of the Black Archives of Mid-America, Inc

“There are challenges,” Wolf says. “You can have a building that is very significant, but if it’s in an area that’s not developing, then there are challenges. The area always comes up in planning meetings when we talk about how to connect 18th and Vine to the Crossroads, but nobody has really figured out what that area is going to look like.”

The city plans to spend $18 million dollars to stabilize the nearby Historic Jazz District at 18th and Vine. “If that development goes well,” Wolf says, “then we can think about what to do with Wheatley-Provident.”

Building a hospital

Wheatley-Provident’s founder, Dr. J. Edward Perry, was a Texas native who graduated from Meharry Medical College in Nashville, Tennessee, in 1895, the same year the National Medical Association was founded. The NMA is the oldest professional association for the advancement of African American physicians in the United States.

After graduation, Perry started private practices in Mexico, Missouri, and Columbia, Missouri, before applying for a surgical residency at the University of Chicago in 1897. When he arrived for registration, he was met by the superintendent of the Post Graduate Medical School, he recalled in his unpublished memoir.

“Dr. Perry, when we were corresponding with you, we did not know you were a colored man,” Perry wrote. “We cannot tell you that we will not take you because it would be a violation of the laws of the state, but I can tell you that we had rather not have you, and further, there is not much that we can do for you.”

Perry studied at the University of Chicago for a year and left determined to improve opportunities for young African American physicians training after him.

“If we as a race ever possess a large number of professional men of a high degree of efficiency, they will have to be developed in Negro hospitals,” Perry wrote. “I will go out of here and build a hospital and dedicate my life to the service of young men, so that they may not meet the embarrassments and handicaps as it has been my experience.”

The same year Perry came to Kansas City, the Kansas and Missouri rivers reached historic levels, overran their banks, swept away bridges and railroad tracks, and turned city streets into canals. At least 20,000 people lost their homes, and the city’s water supply was contaminated. The need for medical care during the flood outpaced the available facilities, especially for minority communities.

A temporary hospital was established at Convention Hall, and Dr. Thomas C. Unthank, an African American physician who was practicing in Kansas City, Kansas, was asked to oversee emergency operations there.

“While serving in this capacity [Unthank] conceived the idea of a city hospital for the training of young Negro men and women in the arts and science of the profession of medicine and nursing,” wrote Dr. Samuel U. Rodgers, the first African American OB/GYN in Kansas City, in a 1962 article for the Journal of the National Medical Association.

Perry’s practice grew to include clinical training for nurses, and in 1910 the practice became The Perry Sanitarium and Nurse Training School. It was the first step towards realizing the goal he had set for himself in Chicago.

As Perry ran the private hospital from his home, he began to develop partnerships with black and white professionals on both sides of the state line. Unthank became an important ally in the quest to establish a state-of-the art hospital where African American men and women could practice medicine and nursing, and receive advanced clinical training in specialties like pediatrics and surgery.

‘Hospital campaign won’

The original structure with the parapet sign was built in 1902 and served a predominantly white neighborhood as a Catholic boy’s school. The school closed in 1903, and sat vacant for the next decade while the block developed and the population changed around it.

In 1926, a large addition, designed by the prominent Kansas City architectural firm Hoit, Price, and Barnes, was built on the property. Dr. Katherine Berry Richardson, who co-founded Children’s Mercy Hospital with her sister, collaborated on the design of the “Mercy Ward” at Wheatley-Provident and was a chief fundraiser for the project.

On March 13, 1917, the Wheatley-Provident Hospital Association formally incorporated and entered into a contract for the building at 1826 Forest Avenue. The association’s board estimated they could renovate and equip the building for $25,000. With $3,000 in the bank, they launched a 20-day, community-wide campaign to raise the balance.

Gifts in increments from $1 to $1,000 were recorded in The Kansas City Sun, an African American weekly, under the headline “Honor Roll.” Hundreds of names were listed in the $5 and $10 categories.

Twenty days later, on December 29, 1917, The Sun’s front page announced, “Hospital Campaign Won” with $27,894 raised.

The campaign set a precedent for community-wide support that would keep Wheatley-Provident Hospital open through economic depression, world war, and the social unrest of the 1960s. The hospital saw its 50,000th patient at the 1826 location in 1971 before moving to the new, larger, Martin Luther King Junior Hospital in 1972.

Its story is not forgotten by residents who have family ties to the building. Residents like Michael Adams, whose great-grandmother, Clara Adams, was active in the community and helped raise funds annually to support the hospital.

“The building in the state it’s in today represents the state of how black America is treated in the United States,” Adams says. “History and monuments are not as well remembered or as well taken care of.”

Without significant structural improvements, the building could soon be erased from the local landscape, taking with it an important symbol of a thriving black Kansas City.

– Jennifer Tufts is an intern on KCUR’s health desk.

Adenah Bayoh, Real Estate Millionaire, Buys Failing IHOP and Saves 50 Jobs!

2 mins read

You may remember Adenah Bayoh from a previous interview we did after discovering how she built a $250 million real estate empire after escaping civil war in Liberia, immigrated to the United States at the age of thirteen and became one of the most successful entrepreneurs in New Jersey.

She attended Newark public schools, put herself through college and is now one of the most successful entrepreneurs in New Jersey.

On August 1st, Adenah, along with officials from the City of Newark hosted the grand re-opening of IHOP Newark. Adenah purchased the IHOP Newark on May 26th, 2017 and just completed a full renovation of the restaurant.

Prior to her purchase, the restaurant was on the verge of closure and nearly fifty employees would have lost their jobs. Adenah now plans to hire an additional forty employees.

“As a product of the City of Newark, I am so proud that I was able to step in to prevent IHOP Newark from closing and hardworking residents from becoming unemployed,” Adenah explained.

“This restaurant is a staple in the Newark community and was among the first urban IHOP locations in the nation. I have so many fond memories of eating there with my family, and I look forward to recreating this experience for new generations of Newark families.

The new IHOP Newark will not only offer a warm and friendly dining experience, it will also offer quality employment opportunities for city residents.”

IHOP Newark is the third franchise location for Adenah, who owns IHOP Irvington and IHOP Paterson. She opened her first location in 2007 in Irvington, New Jersey at age 27.

In addition to her restaurants, she has a real estate portfolio that includes major mixed-use redevelopment projects in Newark, Irvington, and East Orange.

 

Black Beauty Supply Store Celebrates 30 Years

4 mins read

On Saturday, July 22nd, African Image Beauty Supply Salon celebrated their 30th anniversary grand re-opening sale.

Rebecca Opong opened her business over three decades ago wanting to bring hair care and more to the community.

beauty supply
Rebecca Opong

“It’s kind of like a giving back to the community,” stated Opong. “Meet new people, meet old people.”

There will be items on sale, music and refreshments for customers that come visit AIBSS on Saturday.

Originally from Accra, Ghana (West Africa) from a town called Suhum, Oppong sold African clothing when she was located on Crenshaw and Adams. She received her license in cosmetology from L.A. Trade Tech.

At the time in the late 80s, hair products were in high demand especially for people of color, so she decided to go into hair and beauty products. She also realized that there were not many if any African Americans in this business.

One of the few Black-owned beauty supply businesses in the area, AIBSS has stood more than the test of time. The business sells all kinds of products from shea butter to black African soap as well as offering hair braiding services, weaves, African fabrics and movies.

Her daughter, Narkie Opong, when she’s not busy in school or at work, helps out at AIBSS along with her siblings. The Opong family have all put their love and time into supporting their mother’s business. Narkie has watched her mother run AIBSS through the years.

“It’s kind of like a one-stop shop,” said Narkie.

Opong is proud to have been operating within the community for three decades and credits her success to the black community.

Narkie wanted to stress one very important message that has become even more prevelant in recent years.

“Support Black businesses,” said Narkie. “We don’t have too many African American beauty shops and for Black women—that’s like our holy grail.

“For a shop to have been around this long and keep evolving, within itself, I think it’s great not only for the community but for the culture.”

AIBSS prides itself on being a business that is more about being a community experience than about making money. Although patronizing and doing business with community is the goal, Opong values the community more. She wants to make sure that AIBSS is offering a genuine experience the community can’t receive anywhere else.

Not only is [AIBSS] a Black-owned shop, it’s an African business,” stated Opong.

Ultimately, Opong looks forward to expansion across different suites in California and by Gods grace regional and internationally.

African Image Beauty Supply Salon is located at 1878 S. Western Ave in Los Angeles, CA 90006. It’s located on the corner of Washington and Western, next to the 7-Eleven. For more information, please call (323) 733-6383

 

Source: LA Sentinel

First Black Owned Gas Station is Celebrated By The Community

2 mins read

A Jonesboro, GA community is celebrating the opening of its first Black owned gas station . The Citgo owners, Colisha Hicks and her fiancé Fatz are surprised and proud that their business has inspired so many people from the community.

gas station

“We should have something to contribute to our people and let our people know that we can do the same thing that everybody else does,” Fatz said.

Black people are 65% of the population in Clayton County. Hicks says it’s about time the county is experiencing a Black owned gas station.

“It’s not seen every day. Everyone was given congratulations to us,” she said said to NBC News 11.

Fatz says Black boys have been coming in the store confused to see the owners look just like them.

“The youth when they see us they’re shocked,” Fatz explained, “That makes us feel good.”

They want to inspire kids in the community to hustle and work hard for their dreams – whether it’s to own a store or start a business.

Chevy, the couple’s friend, says she predicted the store would go viral for all the right reasons.

“It means so much to the black community because we need this in a time where no one thinks that we do things positive,” Chevy said.

The store plans on hosting a grand opening event in mid-August to bring the community together.

 

Source: NBC 11 Alive

Hollywood Faces the Growing Box Office Power of Black Audiences

7 mins read

The biggest “surprise” of this past weekend box office was also totally predictable: a film with a predominantly Black cast drew a bigger audience than industry analysts expected.

box office

Box Office Hit

Universal’s “Girls Trip,” a women-on-the-loose comedy starring Regina Hall, Queen Latifah, Tiffany Haddish and Jada Pinkett Smith, made $30.4 million in its opening weekend, about 50 percent more than the $20 million Comcast Corp.’s film division estimated and second only to “Dunkirk.” Critics liked it too, with 88 percent positive reviews on Rotten Tomatoes.

(L to R) Director/Producer MALCOLM D. LEE and producer WILL PACKER on the set of “Girls Trip.”

Even as industry forecasts underestimate the box office power of movies with diverse casts, Hollywood does seem to be getting a clue about the overall trend — movies don’t necessarily need white stars to succeed. In the U.S., people of color bought 49 percent of movie tickets in 2016, up from 45 percent the year previous, according to data from the Motion Picture Association of America.

The biggest predictor of a film’s success with growing non-white audiences is the relative non-white-ness of its cast, said Christy Haubegger, head of Multicultural Business Development for Creative Artists Agency. “This is not a niche at all,” she said. “Nobody would ever call ‘half’ a niche.”

Still, “Girls Trip” is only the latest example of a film with a Black cast exceeding projections. “All Eyez On Me” beat expectations in its June opening weekend. Earlier this year, the debut of Universal’s “Get Out” knocked its competition out of first place, and, when it opened in wide release, “Hidden Figures” beat Walt Disney Co.’s “Rogue One: A Star Wars Story,” which was in its fourth week in theaters.

The Tupac biopic, All Eyez On Me, grossed $27 million in its opening weekend

‘Funny Is Funny’

As part of the campaign for “Girls Trip,” filmmakers Will Packer and Malcolm D. Lee went with the stars to this year’s Essence Festival, the four-day music fest central to the film’s plot. The movie screened in New Orleans during the weekend, and the cast participated in panels. At one point, Pinkett Smith and Latifah acknowledged the buying power of their audience.

“As a people, we always have to support diverse stories in our community,” Pinkett Smith said. “We have to remember that, because if you’re not buying it, it’s not going to get made.”

Following the targeted marketing — a strategy that also benefited Universal’s 2015 hit “Straight Outta Compton” — the studio distributed the film widely, a nod to the increasingly catholic tastes of white audiences.

Straight Outta Compton

“We actually went very deep into the marketplace,” said Nick Carpou, the studio’s president of domestic distribution. “We were putting this film out there into theaters in all sorts of markets and all sorts of neighborhoods. Funny is funny.”

Codeblack

Five years ago, Lions Gate Entertainment Corp. created Codeblack, a division that specifically produces and distributes content targeted at Black audiences. Lions Gate also has an ongoing partnership with Tyler Perry, the creator of the blockbuster “Madea” movies. Jeff Clanagan, who leads the label, said they get better results by devoting a business unit to black audiences from development to distribution.

“If you’re not focused on those business segments then you’re not going to really build out a long-term business model for those audiences,” Clanagan said. “For us, it’s about target marketing. We know our audience, and we’re talking to our audience all of time.”

By staying active on social media and weighing in on cultural conversations — most recently Codeblack told fans they’d be willing to produce a Rihanna-Lupita Nyong’o heist movie as imagined by Twitter users — the studio’s executives stay in tune with the social media buzz generated by African-American users.

For example, when the label released “All Eyez On Me,” it tracked both the movie’s title and the shorthand, “the Tupac movie,” because that’s what some potential moviegoers were calling it. Traditional tracking services aren’t always that quick to recognize and account for colloquial phrases, Clanagan said. The film earned $26.4 million in its opening weekend, above the industry’s expected $21.8 million.

“The studios are looking to market in a more effective way and use these dollars more efficiently across the board,” said Talitha Watkins, an executive in CAA’s multicultural unit who previously worked on Universal’s marketing for “Straight Outta Compton” and the “Fast and Furious” movies.

Some studios now have celebrities promote films on Instagram or send them to events like the BET Awards. This reaches diverse audiences where they’re at, which Watkins and Haubegger say is increasingly critical for the success of any movie.

“We tend to go to the places where people invite us,” said Haubegger, who is Mexican-American. “Just like everyone else, a big part of it isn’t only reaching us, but moving us.”

 

Source: Bloomberg

More Black Women in The U.S. Are Becoming Interested in Gun Ownership

7 mins read

Gun ownership amongst Black women is on the rise. An increase in firearm sales is largely tied to self-defense and appears to be a growing movement among Black women across the country.

black gun ownership

A study by the Pew Research Center found almost two-thirds of Black households now viewed gun ownership as a ‘necessity’, compared to less than a third in 2012.

Philip Smith, who founded the National African American Gun Association in 2012 during Black History Month, said he was stunned by his group’s rapid growth, to 20,000 members in 30 chapters across the country, today, the majority of whom are women.

‘I thought it would be the brothers joining,’ Smith said. But instead, he found something surprising – more Black women joining, most of them expressing concerns about living either alone or as single parents and wanting to protect themselves and their homes.

guns
Alicia Kelley, a 36-year-old banker (AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

The recent shootings of Black men and boys by cops around the country have left Smith and others concerned that racism can make a black person a perceived threat, even when carrying a firearm legally.

His organization takes pains to coach members on what to do when stopped by police, but not everyone is comforted.

Stayce Robinson with her AR-15. Robinson, 49, is an entrepreneur and tax analyst for a software company. (AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

‘It’s disheartening to think that you have everything in order: Your license to carry. You comply. You’re not breaking the law. You’re not doing anything wrong.

And there’s a possibility you could be shot and killed,’ said Laura Manning, a 50-year-old payroll specialist for ADP from Atlanta. ‘I’m not going to lie. I’m just afraid of being stopped whether I have my gun or not.’

Laura Manning, a 50-year-old payroll specialist in Atlanta
(AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

One new gun owner Jonava Johnson, says it took her a long time to decide to get a gun. For years she was afraid of them after an ex-boyfriend from high school threatened her and shot and killed her new boyfriend in front of her. She was just 17.

At first she just bought a guard dog, but in recent months, she turned to firearms for defense.

‘I think that’s the way it’s always been in the black community: It was never OK for us’ to own a gun, said Johnson, 50. But now? ‘I hope I never have to kill anybody, but if it comes down to me or my children, they’re out.’

Dr. Janella Thomas-Burse, a 53-year-old gynecologist, poses with her SCCY 9mm handgun. (AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

And she is not alone. From church ministers and tax analysts, to glamorous flight attendants, Black women from all different walks of life are picking up firearms and learning how to shoot.

Dana R. Mitchell, a 47-year-old minister at Destiny World Church outside of Atlanta, said she had been in a household with firearms, but ‘always had that fear.’

Dana R. Mitchell, a 47-year-old minister – AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

That changed after she was invited her to the range with some other women, she kept seeing news reports of violence and a friend had her purse stolen while pumping gas.

‘I woke up one day watching TV and I said, you have to get over this,’ she said. She’s now more aware of her surroundings and is learning how to prepare herself in case she becomes a potential victim. ‘I don’t want this sweet face to fool you.’

Markysha Carter, pictured with her Taurus PT111 handgun, is a 40-year-old marketing specialist for a bank. (AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

Markysha Carter, a 40-year-old marketing specialist for a bank, wants to make sure she stays safe should she ever be stopped by a police officer.

‘As a Black person in America, this is a major problem,’ she says. ‘You hope and pray you’re following all the rules and that officer stopping you is following all the rules and doesn’t have an agenda.’

Corelle Owens, a 45-year-old resident of Mableton, and a flight attendant, decided to learn how to shoot after her car, phone, tablet and wallet were stolen in March. (AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

Marchelle “Tig” Tigner is the founder of Trigger Happy Firearm Instruction LLC. ‘Tig,’ is on a mission: to train at least 1 million women how to shoot a firearm.

black gun ownership
Marchelle Washington Founder of My Sister’s Keeper Defense LLC(AP Photo/Lisa Marie Pane)

She had spent no time around guns before joining the National Guard. Now, as a survivor of domestic violence and sexual assault, she wants to give other women of color the training she hadn’t had.

black gun ownership
Marchelle Tigner

‘It’s important, especially for Black women, to learn how to shoot,’ Tigner said, noting that Black women are more likely to be victims of domestic violence. ‘We need to learn how to defend ourselves.’

black gun ownership
Tig, posing with some of her students.

She says self-defense is not about killing someone but is instead about eliminating a threat.

Tony O. Lawson 


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Sources: AP & The Guardian

Couples Inc. : Eco-Friendly Timepiece Makers, David and MarQuerite

8 mins read

As concerns about the environment have grown, so have the demand for eco-friendly and sustainable products. One couple that’s all about creating a business that has a minimal effect on the environment is David Gandy and MarQuerite Hamden, founders of Ecowrist.

Eco-Friendly
David and MarQuerite

SB: How did you both meet?

David: We met in Amsterdam in 1999. Mutual friends of ours, Nicole and Glynis Terborg, convinced us to take a course called The Landmark Forum. We ended up becoming partners in the course and then partners in life.

SB: What inspired the creation of EcoWrist?

MarQuerite: We were traveling and found watches made with sustainable materials. We bought them and wore them every day when we got back to NY and everyone commented on how cool they were.

A light bulb went off and since I have a background in fashion and both David and I are performing artists and entrepreneurs, we decided to take the steps to create Afrocentric versions of the product.

We started with a couple of designs for wrist watches at first and Ecowrist grew organically with a collection each year that now consists of our signature wristwatches, pocket watches and sunglasses.

SB: What is the most important thing to remember when you are married to your business partner?

David: You are not going to agree on everything and it’s okay. Compromising and offering positive and honest feedback about something that your partner really is set on and giving them the room to develop it.

MarQuerite: I’d like to add that you discover each other’s strengths and weaknesses and with that knowledge you work to get the best out of each other and use that to benefit the company.

The positive effect is that it also benefits your marriage. Again, being straightforward, having integrity and leaving Ecowrist at the end of the day at the table/office, which is very hard. We work on that every day. Some days are better than others.

SB: What has been the most challenging part of your entrepreneurial journey so far? What is the most gratifying?

MarQuerite: Having the capital to help Ecowrist to further grow and getting it to the next level by funding a solid inventory, managing social media and affording the time to put into the company. But, raising three children and maintaining a relationship in the midst of it all has been quite challenging as well.

The most gratifying has been the love we receive for the products we design.This year marks our 10th anniversary! All of the love and support that we got from our customers, family, our tribe ( you know who you are) , and our team means the world to us! We could not have gotten this far without them (you).

David: The connections and relationships that come through Ecowrist are invaluable. Ujamaa and Umoja has been part of Ecowrist and one of our goals is to be a part of the movement to connect the Diaspora throughout the world.

We now see the fruits of our labor. The ideas and vision we had, has become a reality and is still continuing to manifest in a way that is much bigger then we hoped for and we are riding on that wave.

SB: In what ways do you both have similar entrepreneurial traits and in what ways are you different as entrepreneurs?

David: We both want to have passion about our career choices and really don’t want to work for anyone else.

I’d say that I’m a bit more spontaneous (not always good) while MarQuerite is a bit more detail oriented and processes information more thoroughly.

MarQuerite: We like to dive into something new and completely give it our all. If it works out, great! If not, we take that experience, cut our losses and proceed into a new direction.

We’re both competitive, have great negotiation skills, are people’s people, ambitious, fair, and have integrity with our work. I’m better with logistics and budget. David can stay calmer when there is a storm, and line the initial steps out.

SB: Why is it important for you to create products using sustainable material?

David: Why spend more money on developing raw resources, destroying the environment and contribute to more global warming (real news not alternate fact news) when everything has already been pretty much processed for us? It’s not just through their business where they think about using sustainable products and being environmentally friendly. They’ve even thought about making simple changes within their home too. From looking to replace their old toilet with something like the TOTO drake ii, to using energy efficient light bulbs around the house, every little bit helps in improving the environment. More people should be like this.

With minimal processing you save time, money and the environment.

MarQuerite: We have been incorporating a healthier lifestyle for over 15 years now through Organic nutrition, skincare, and much more. All of the research I do has turned me into a scholar.

There are so many toxins in our environment and most people don’t have a clue or don’t care. Wanting to be more knowledgeable and conscious to achieve and prioritize our well being is a priority for us but, not in this society.

It was only a natural step that followed with our business that we stayed on that path! Having the power to create a product that looks and feels great, and actually has a minimal impact on our environment is important to us. Having our children witness this will help them implement sustainability and an entrepreneurial mindset in their lives.

SB: What advice do you have for other entrepreneurs?

David: Stay the course and be open to being critiqued by folks who know better. Just make sure the critique is coming from love and not jealousy.

MarQuerite: Go for what you believe in, even if no one else sees it. Follow through, trust your instinct. Have integrity and honesty.

Find out more about Ecowrist from their website.

 

 

-Tony Oluwatoyin Lawson aka @thebusyafrican

Black Owned Businesses in Arizona You Should Know

2 mins read
Black people make up only four percent of the population in Arizona. That means those who want to support Black owned businesses in the Copper State have to search juuust a lil bit harder. We appreciate the commitment and we’re here to make that search easier.

Black Owned Businesses in Arizona

Arizona Informant Publishing Company runs the Arizona Informant Newspaper, the only Black-owned weekly newspaper in the state.

 

Beard Organics is a company that provides premium men’s grooming products.

MV Transportation is the largest privately owned transportation company in North America, providing paratransit, fixed route, shuttle, and school bus services in both the U.S. and Canada.

Ezekiel’s Restaurant is a counter-serve institution preparing fried chicken, catfish & other soul food dinners & sides.

Hot Pot Caribbean Cuisine is an authentic Jamaican Caribbean restaurant.

Papa Joe’s Fish N Que is an informal counter-serve establishment serving up smoked-meat sandwiches & fried seafood baskets.

Rare Essence Natural Hair Studio is a natural hair studio that specializes in natural hair care, braids, locs, and hair twists.

Rare Essence Academy is the online Natural Hair Styling Training Platform with a focus in business accommodating entrepreneurs who want to excel in the industry.

Ageez Hair Center is a family owned and operated barbershop and hair salon that has been in operation for 17 years.

 A Cut Above is a classic, barbershop that specializes in the latest trends as well as traditional scissor and clipper cuts.

Hairloks by Arlette specializes in transitioning hair from chemically treated hair to healthy natural hair.

Alycan Design Medispa is the destination for getting a massage, removing a tattoo, or simply rejuvenating your skin to retain that glow.

 

Get Sassy Beauty Supply is a family owned business that offers beauty salon supply products, including hair care items, skincare products, wigs, and extensions.

 

-Tony O. Lawson


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The First Woman Bank Founder Was Black. She Just Got Her Own Monument

2 mins read

Maggie Lena Walker was the first woman of any race to start a bank. St. Luke’s Penny Savings, gave loans to Black business owners and residents at fair rates, then recycled the interest earned to keep building the community.

In 1901  Maggie is quoted as saying, “First we need a savings bank. Let us put our moneys together; let us use our moneys; let us put our money out at usury among ourselves, and reap the benefit ourselves. Let us have a bank that will take the nickels and turn them into dollars.”

Interior of St. Luke Penny Savings Bank, c. 1917
Maggie L Walker National Historic Site

Now, a 10-foot bronze statue of a 45-year-old Walker standing tall is surrounded by inscriptions tracing the life of the woman who early on helped her mother, a former slave, by delivering clothes as a laundress.

Maggie L. Walker and the officers of the St. Luke Penny Savings Bank, c. 1917
Maggie L Walker National Historic Site

She then became a newspaper publisher, teacher, bank founder, businesswoman, civil rights leader, entrepreneur and mother.

“She is in her rightful place in the heart of this city,” Liza Mickens, another of Maggie Walker’s great-great-granddaughters.

She is facing Broad Street, Mickens said, where African-American people weren’t always welcome. She is also at the gateway to Jackson Ward, a historic African-American community that she helped inspire.

During its long history, the bank founded by Maggie Walker benefited the Black community in Richmond. By 1920, it had issued more than 600 mortgages to black families, allowing many to realize the dream of home ownership.

It also provided employment for Black people who’s only other options were menial or labor intensive jobs.

The statue is located in downtown Richmond at Broad and Adams streets, which is a gateway to the Jackson Ward neighborhood where many of her life accomplishments occurred.

-Tony Oluwatoyin Lawson

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