Browse Tag

designer

10 mins read

From Academia to Apparel: The Story Behind Maison Ledoux

Maison Ledoux is a fashion brand that seamlessly blends culture, comfort, and conscious design. Founded by husband and wife team Tiara Starks and James Montgomery III., this brand is redefining what it means to wear your values, offering stylish and sustainable apparel crafted from ethically sourced, high-quality materials.

In this interview, Tiara and James share their journey in building Maison Ledoux, discussing how their personal experiences have shaped the brand and its mission.

Maison Ledoux

Tiara, could you share more about your experiences at Northwestern University and how being one of the few Black students influenced the creation of the Both/And collection?

On graduation day, I was the only Black student graduating with my major. In fact, I only recognized two of the cognitive science students lined up to cross the stage. This was indicative of the isolated experience I had throughout college. I didn’t have people to study with or look out for me.

There were a lot of unspoken rules about making it in research that I didn’t know. This experience led me to create a nonprofit society for Black scientists pursuing careers in brain and behavioral research. With this organization, I hosted community events to teach the public about science and provided resources and networking opportunities to Black researchers like myself.

The Both/And collection started as a fundraiser idea to raise money for my nonprofit by selling merchandise that allowed Black scientists to showcase their pride in their profession along with pride in being part of the African diaspora. It occurred to me that people in other professions likely had the same experience and related to the struggle of being one of few Black people in the workplace. I decided to expand the design to include other careers, and the Both/And collection was born.

Maison Ledoux

James, how did your engineering background contribute to the development of Maison Ledoux and your approach to design?

My approach to Maison Ledoux is pretty identical to my approach to mechanical design. I follow the same processes. In engineering, you design to a set of requirements, test the design using mockups and samples provided by the manufacturer, and then, once a product is validated, send it to market. The requirements and use cases for a hoodie might be different than a treadmill or a helicopter, but the process remains the same.

My engineering background has helped me come up with ways to test different design and packaging ideas. Like the metal, plastic, and wood often used in engineering, various materials found in clothing have different material properties. For example, Ankara is not nearly as elastic as fleece or jersey, so you have to have precise dimensions when using it, especially in areas like a sleeve or a neckline.

As we grow, I look forward to incorporating more of my engineering skills into our products, especially items like backpacks and purses. There are a plethora of materials, both luxurious and sustainable, that I am excited to play with and utilize to create some truly amazing pieces.

Maison Ledoux

Tiara and James, how do your personal styles and backgrounds influence your creative process and the overall aesthetic of Maison Ledoux?

James: I enjoy defying stereotypes and expectations. I am an athlete, an engineer, and an anime and video game nerd. My creative aesthetic mirrors this spirit of coexistence and contrast. Stylistically, I mix traditional with eclectic, form with function, and minimalism with rich textures and colors. I also love to discover and create luxury experiences. You’ll see these characteristics in Maison Ledoux’s premium aesthetic and the way we invite our customers to push boundaries in their wardrobes.

Tiara: I am very much a perfectionist and have always been an advocate for others. This shows up in my creative process in how I pore over the details of each design and care about the experience of the people wearing each garment. My style is practical, comfortable, and creative, which is evidenced in the way that Maison Ledoux produces innovative designs that also meet the specific needs of our customers that are currently unmet in the industry.

We both love to mix contrasting styles, which is something you’ll see throughout Maison Ledoux’s aesthetic. We love to mix timeless styles with modern and sleek lines, masculine with feminine silhouettes, classic tailoring with pops of color. We also are both major fans of jewel tones. These are all things you’ll see in Maison Ledoux’s branding and design aesthetic.

Maison Ledoux is committed to slow fashion and sustainability. Can you elaborate on what slow fashion means to you and how it manifests in your collections?

Slow fashion means that we take time in our design process to prioritize fabrics that stand the test of time and incorporate inventory strategies like offering pre-orders and not over-purchasing inventory. Rather than constantly pushing out new designs every week that are based on fleeting trends and made with cheap materials, we focus on timelessness and durability.

In the Both/And collection, we use all-natural fabrics and prioritize organic materials. Every embellishment is stitched onto the garment rather than printed, so your clothing won’t need to be constantly replaced. We release our collections in limited quantities, minimizing waste and ensuring that every garment is a limited edition.

Our slow fashion approach leads to quality clothing that lasts longer. This is better for our environment and creates a premier customer experience that exudes quality and luxury.

Maison Ledoux

Your signature hoodie features Ankara print sourced directly from Nigeria. What inspired you to incorporate this fabric, and how do you ensure ethical sourcing practices?

We wanted to use an African print fabric to invoke boldness and to embody our African roots and pride in being Black. As descendants of the transatlantic slave trade, many of our ancestors originate from West Africa. We knew we wanted to pay homage to this region. We wanted to honor the diversity of African textiles and the legacy of the Nigerian roots that many of us share.

It was our priority to ensure that the culture we are highlighting directly benefits from the growth of our business. When sourcing Ankara suppliers, we sought out woman-owned businesses in Nigeria to support the local economy. Purchasing from small, independent businesses rather than large wholesale factories also helps us to ensure the work conditions of the people providing us the fabric and that they are paid fairly.

Maison Ledoux

What advice would you give to aspiring designers or entrepreneurs who want to make a positive impact through their work?

Be prepared to make sacrifices. Sticking to your ideals and values is often the harder path, and you have to be willing to take it if you are determined to make a positive impact. Whether it be supply chain, price point, staffing, policies, product design, money, or time, there will be something you have to sacrifice or that will be harder for you than it is for others in order to make a positive impact on the world.

At the same time, have balance, and make sure that you’re structuring your business to account for these sacrifices while still making a profit. Don’t give up! Know that it can be done but doesn’t have to be done all at once. Continue to learn, innovate, and stay in tune with the landscape of the areas you want to impact.

Visit Maison Ledoux Today!

4 mins read

Black Fashion Designers Shine at the Olympics: A Call for More Inclusion

The 2024 Paris Olympics is set to be a global showcase of athleticism, culture, and fashion. While the spotlight often shines on the athletes, the designers behind the scenes play a crucial role in shaping the visual identity of the games.

This year, we’re witnessing a growing presence of Black fashion designers whose creative talents are being celebrated on the world’s biggest stage.

Telfar, Actively Black, and Beyond

Four names have emerged as pioneers in bringing Black design to the Olympics: Telfar, Actively Black, Phillip Mims’ HMN ALNS, and Stella Jean.

Telfar is making waves by outfitting the Liberian Olympic team in custom-made Opening Ceremony kits. The brand’s inclusive and boundary-pushing aesthetic perfectly matches the spirit of the Olympics.

Actively Black, founded by Lanny Smith, has proudly taken on the task of dressing Team Nigeria. Their designs celebrate Nigerian heritage while incorporating modern elements, creating a powerful and visually striking look.

Phillip Mims’ HMN ALNS label is adding a touch of personal style to the games. Olympic hurdler Alaysha Johnson proudly wears his creations, showcasing the intersection of fashion and sports.

Stella Jean, a Haitian-Italian fashion designer, has made a significant impact by crafting the uniforms for the Haitian Olympic team. Her label, renowned for its fusion of Haitian and Italian aesthetics, has brought a vibrant and culturally rich dimension to the world’s biggest sporting stage.

These designers are breaking new ground and inspiring a new generation of creatives. Their involvement in the Olympics is a significant step forward in recognizing the talent and diversity within the fashion industry.

A Wider Stage for Black Designers

While the contributions of Telfar, Actively Black, and Phillip Mims are commendable, it’s essential to acknowledge that there is still room for improvement. The Olympics presents a unique opportunity to amplify the voices of Black designers on a global scale. It’s time to see more representation across all aspects of the games, from uniforms to merchandise and beyond.

Historically, the fashion landscape at the Olympics has been dominated by a narrow spectrum of designers, often excluding Black talent. This exclusion is a symptom of a larger systemic issue within the fashion industry, where barriers to entry for Black designers are significantly higher. Factors such as limited access to capital, mentorship, and industry connections have hindered the progress of many talented Black designers.

To address these disparities, organizations like Harlem’s Fashion Row and Pensole Lewis College of Design have emerged as champions for Black designers. These platforms provide invaluable resources, mentorship, and opportunities, empowering Black creatives to reach their full potential. By creating a supportive ecosystem, these organizations are helping to break down barriers and create a more inclusive fashion industry.

The progress seen at the 2024 Paris Olympics is a testament to the incredible talent and resilience of Black designers. As we celebrate these achievements, let’s continue to push for even greater inclusion and representation in future events, ensuring that the world stage truly reflects the diversity of its participants.

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1 min read

Black Owned Fabrics Businesses You Should Know

If you’re looking for Black owned businesses that sell fabrics, look no further. We’ve compiled a list of national and international businesses that offer fabrics of varying styles and textures.

Check them out and let us know who else should be on the list!

Black Owned Fabrics Businesses

AFROTHREADS

Black Owned Fabric

Ankara Malkia

Black Owned Fabric

Pigeon Wishes

Black Owned Fabric

Yaraa African Fabrics

Black Owned Fabric

Melanated Fabrics

Cultured Expressions

Trap Fabricks

Black Owned Fabric

Selvedge and Bolts

Femi Fabrics

House of Mami Wata

Black Owned Fabric

Our Fabric Stash

7Byraz 

Textil Colores Del Mundo

Love Bug Studios

Latifah Saafir Studios

-Tony O. Lawson


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1 min read

Black Wedding Dress Designers You Should Know

No matter what your personal style, these Black wedding dress designers from the U.S. and across the world, will make you look amazing on your special day.

Black Wedding Dress Designers

Jean-Ralph Thurin

black wedding dress designers

MEJEANNE COUTURE

Andrea Pitter Campbell 

Black Wedding Dress Designers

Shukri Hashi Bridal

Black Wedding Dress Designers

Brides by NoNA

Black Wedding Dress Designers

Kosibah

AMSALE

Nene L.A. Shiro

Black Wedding Dress Designers

Andrea Iyamah 

Deola Sagoe

 

Also, check out our list of wedding photographers!

Tony O. Lawson


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4 mins read

Why Aren’t There More Black Fashion Designers?

Within a fashion industry that touts itself as celebratory of difference, diversity, and inclusion, Black design talent consistently remains, at best, marginalised and all too often plagued by systemic employment discrimination.

Let me be clear: the established, mainstream fashion design community does not have a diversity problem, it has a “Black people problem.”

Designer, KIBWE CHASE-MARSHALL

Within the majority of luxury, contemporary-level and mass-market design studios, talented Black designers are seldom equitably afforded opportunities to attain senior designer, design director, creative director or vice president of design titles.

More often than not, they are blacklisted by influential recruiters and hiring managers, resulting in little to no prospects for stable employment or market rate salaries.

Designer, Maxwell Osborne

Fed up with watching this most blatant form of discrimination thrive while the broader industry capitalises on Black celebrity associations and the recent uptick in Black casting, I decided to do something.

Over the holidays, I began conceiving what would become a social media campaign; the goal was to ask and answer my own questions, in hopes of developing a plan for how the fashion design community could move toward fairer hiring practices.

On Wednesday, January 3rd #BreakSilenceBreakCeilings went live.

Designers, Darlene and Lizzy Okpo:

A few days thereafter, H&M depicted a young Black boy in a hoodie reading “coolest monkey in the jungle”, confirming how recklessly fashion brands with little to no Black leadership utilise images of Black people. (The Swedish retailer has appointed a diversity leader since the incident.)

In fashion, timing is everything, and the time has come for the industry to remedy the systemic marginalisation of Black design talent.

Designer, Carly Cushnie

My path to working in fashion was non-traditional. Back in 1997, when I was struggling to find my footing and secure loans to attend New York University, I was offered a role as a designer at Michael Kors where I’d been interning for two seasons.

As my prospects for financing school waned, I enthusiastically accepted the role and threw myself into the challenge of mastering a new craft.

Designer, Tracy Reese

I was not formally trained in apparel design (save for a few courses I had taken at Pratt), but having grown up the son of two architects, I was very comfortable with technical drafting. My sketching ability became my value to the team, as I designed hardware details, show-specific accessories and communicated styling directives via illustration across categories.

Over the course of the next decade, as I landed roles within the studios of Isaac Mizrahi, Oscar de la RentaRalph Lauren, Gap Inc., J. Mendel and An Original Penguin, I grew strong in my abilities to lead fittings, appraise and select fabrics, and build colour stories as well as nurture talent, predict market trends and build valuable vendor relationships.

Designer, Samantha Black

But within the professional environments in which I worked, I rarely encountered another Black face. Wherever I worked, I was consistently the highest titled Black team member. I was also consistently making considerably less money than my non-Black counterparts.

By the early aughts, headhunters were still reaching out, but I noticed that they rarely seemed to passionately advocate for me in the manner that many of my non-Black peers enjoyed.

Read the full article at Business of Fashion

 

BY KIBWE CHASE-MARSHALL

 

11 mins read

Ancient Modern: Designer Hadiya Williams on Her Work and Inspiration

In 2018, we’re launching a new section: Aesthetics + Design. Our love of architecture, the arts and timeless design is married to our commitment to supporting the brilliant creatives that produce the work that adds value and beauty to our lives. Featuring architects, curators, artists, creators and makers, we’re excited to celebrate those most visually talented amongst us. Additionally, we’ll be sharing inspiration from homes and spaces that inspire.

For our inaugural feature, we sat down with Washington, D.C. based designer, Hadiya Williams, whose design has left in indelible mark on our lives, literally and figuratively. She was the mastermind behind our gorgeous wedding invitations for the #BlackestWeddingEver bka the ORIGINAL Jolloff and Jambalaya. (Believe it or not, some people actually stole our hashtag. Can you imagine?) But I digress.  She also recently completed a few larger scale projects in our Philadelphia home that was featured on HGTV’s Sneak Peek with AphroChic.

Check out what Hadiya had to say about her own personal aesthetic and process and look forward to more gorgeous inspiration to come.

Shantrelle P. Lewis

SB: Where are you from and how did you start working in design?

HW: I was born and raised in Washington, DC. I started designing while I was attending Bowie State University. I decided to take some computer graphics classes for an elective. I fell in love with the class and continued to teach myself how to use the design software. I eventually received by BFA in Graphic Design from Columbia College in Chicago.

SB: HBCU LOVE! And shout out to Columbia College. The Museum of Contemporary Photography(MoCP), on Columbia’s campus where Dandy Lion was on view in 2014, was one of the best things that ever happened to my career. Oh wait, you actually came to Chicago and saw the show there.

HW: I did! It was great to be back in the city. And of course, the exhibit was all of the things.

SB: Please describe what you do. How you self identify? As an artist? Designer? Creator?

HW: I would call myself all of the above. Depends on what I’m discussing or referring to. Ultimately, I am an artist. I know for a fact that what I do is art. I work intuitively most of the time. My work evokes emotion and very rooted in spirituality. Always has been.

SB: What inspired you to launch your 100 days of Black and white?

HW: I follow designer and book artist @eisroughdraft on IG. She shared a creative challenge, #The100DayProject with Elle Luna & The Great Discontent and I decided to do it. I was in a really tough space, creatively, at the time and thought the challenge would be a good way to help me focus and explore what I could do within that space. I had no idea how dramatic that release would be. I highly recommend a challenge like this where you do something for at least 21 days.

SB: What gave you gumption to start Black Pepper Paperie?

HW: #theblackestweddingever was the tipping point for me actually starting my business.  I did the invitation for this dope ass wedding which we all knew would be out of this world.

No one could have know just how amazing that experience would be. I came back from New Orleans in a completely different state of mind.

Before I left I was focused on working at my nonprofit gig and building up my position there. But I got back home and I knew I had to do work that I loved and that was exciting.

I began to plant the seeds for my stationery/event design business. Hence the “paperie” part of my name. I was pumped about that but there was still a part of it that I hadn’t figured out. I’m still learning and figuring out where this is going but it’s going definitely in the right direction.

SB: What are the most challenging and the most rewarding parts of owning your own business?

HW: The most challenging part about my business, so far is the learning. I have spent my career learning technical skills and design and being very focused with in the graphic design world.

Being an entrepreneur requires you to know so much more outside of art and design. That part is definitely challenging for me as a creative person. Like many artists, I just want to make shit.

The rewarding part, however, is the learning. Lol. Everyday I am faced with a new challenge. Creative and otherwise.

SB: Where do you pull inspiration? Who or what are your muses?

HW:  Black women. I am surrounded by an array of amazing, talented, dynamic women who guide me. They’re my muses. I’m also inspired by so many things around me. I have tons of design books, I go to vintage shops, thrift stores, outdoor markets, Pinterest.

I love West African art and design. It has always influenced my design thinking and the way I see.

SB: Tell me about your favorite personal/professional project?

HW: Ha! So, recently I painted designs on two walls in this home in Philly. Of course this is your home. That was something I hadn’t explored before and almost told myself that I wasn’t capable of. I consider it a favorite because it taught me that I have so much more work to do. And it reminded me that my work is spiritual.

I was inspired by the home itself and the history of the historically Black neighborhood, you and Tony’s roots in West African culture, and the open-minded spirit and boldness that you have.

Your curatorial work is bold and is all about taking risks. No one really thinks of home decor as risk-taking but it is the place where we are our most vulnerable and most comfortable. It says so much about who we are or at least it should. When people see our living space, if we are fortunate, it should tell them what we value most.

SB: Is there such a thing as a Black or African aesthetic?

HW: I think there is a thing that comes from Blackness that is innate, intuitive, not something that can be counted and measured. You know it when you see it and you actually feel the aesthetic, energetically.

I don’t think there is one specific aesthetic that is Black or African. I believe that we have a common aesthetic thread throughout the Diaspora.

The way we create music, dance, paint, and experience art in many forms, is connected. The evolved version of Black Americans is still connected to the Continent.

The same for the Caribbean. We all belong to each other. We consistently birth new art forms everyday. We are the cultural creators of the world.

SB: How would you describe your own personal aesthetic?

HW: Currently, my work is an amalgamation of West African cultural art, Black American cultural art and design, and early 20th century, western, abstract art and design that is essentially an appropriation or reinterpretation of West African art forms.

People who see my work tend to know or think they know it’s mine. So clearly I have an aesthetic, I have not found the words to describe it yet.

SB: What’s on your coffee table?

HW: A handmade vase from a fellow ceramics classmate, a book of matches, candle, my “genie bottle,” Dandy Lion by Shantrelle P. Lewis, Black Panther by Emory Douglas, Remix by AphroChic, The House Book, a Fire!! reprint, Black Society by Gerri Major, Taschen Publishing’s Logo Modernism.

SB: These days I’m becoming more and more selective about the kind of images I want to see in my social media fees. Who should we be following on IG? 

@BLKMKTVintage, @nicolecrowder, @justinablakeney, @andreapippins @ShoppeBlack, @nayyirahwaheed, @xnasozi, @tactilematter, @Afrominimalist @WalkieChatter, @ProfessionalBlackGirl and @Nachesnow. There are more but these are the first to come to mind.

SB: Lastly, what are tools that you can’t live without?

HW: My laptop.My cell phone (camera). #2 HB Pencils.

You can follow Hadiya on IG at @hadiyawilliams and @blackpepperpaperieco or visit blackpepperpaperie.com to inquire about projects, to purchase items and for more information.